McCarter Theatre presents Lynn Nottage's 'Intimate Apparel'

Director Jade King Carroll — whom area theatergoers know from three productions at People's Light & Theatre Company -- stages a superb Intimate Apparel on McCarter Theatre's smaller stage, the Berlind. The story of African American seamstress Esther (Quincy Tyler Bernstine), who specializes in women's undergarments and weakness, addresses timely issues about women's rights, racial relations, and love's complexities.

A solitary existence

Alexis Distler's set spreads the play's locations in 1905 Lower Manhattan over two levels, forcing hardworking Esther to trudge staircases to see her clients. We meet Mrs. Van Buren (Kate MacCluggage), a white society woman neglected by her husband, and Mayme (Jessica Frances Dukes) a jazz singer and pianist who sidelines as a prostitute. From each, plain Esther — a 35-year-old virgin — learns about men during fitting sessions that double as confessionals.

Esther's life gets a jolt of excitement from two men. Romanian fabric merchant Mr. Marks (Tasso Feldman) enjoys her company and appreciates her tastes: "Everyone wants the same thing," he laments, "but you want different. That's nice." But he's obligated to an arranged marriage and his Jewish faith (not that the times would allow their relationship anyway). Esther invests more hope in George (Galen Kane), a laborer from Barbados who corresponds with her from Panama, where he digs the canal. Esther cannot read or write, so Mrs. Van Buren becomes her confidante and scribe.

Esther's social life sees limits due to her race and station, but her mind stays sharp. "You must take me to one of your Negro shows," Mrs. Van Buren gushes when hearing of Esther's sole theater adventure.

"And will you take me to the opera?" Esther replies, succinctly reminding her of the social impossibility. Later, Esther asks her, "How can we be friends? I've never been through your front door."

Hearts break

At Act I's end, George arrives, meeting Esther for the first time at their wedding. Esther leaves the boarding house, run by likeable busybody Mrs. Dickson (Brenda Pressley), embarking on a new life that's far from perfect. George frets and fumes because he cannot find work. He hopes to buy a business with Esther's savings, which she's sewn inside a quilt. Can Esther make this marriage work?

Intimate Apparel compares favorably with other American classics. A Raisin in the Sun comes to mind, because both plays introduce strong female characters that persevere when their men stumble (or worse), but the play's distinct characters and dramatic arc also recall Arthur Miller's best work.

The production supports the story well, including Dede M. Ayite's period costumes and colorful corsets, Nicole Pearce's warm lighting, and Karin Graybash's ragtime-infused sound design. Someday, no one will feel the need to point out that all the designers are women — though, in 2017, it's still noteworthy. Most impressive, though, is Bernstine's Esther, whose convincing social awkwardness highlights innate nobility, infusing Intimate Apparel with hope.