To experience Valley Forge as Washington's troops endured it

Valley Forge reconsidered

In
4 minute read
Just before Christmas, on the 233rd anniversary of George Washington's encampment at Valley Forge, I trudged over frozen ground to the National Park to join a candlelight walking tour.

I live a half-mile from the park entrance, and it's another half-mile to the spot where the barracks were built. In 20-degree weather, this was a tough hike. But it forced me to imagine how grueling it must have been for the colonial soldiers who marched from Gulph Mills to Valley Forge, uphill with equipment, in freezing weather in December of 1777.

I've been in the park many times for jogging, bicycling and picnics. But this time I perceived it through a new prism, thanks to well-informed, costumed re-enactors, including a tall, magisterial General Washington look-alike. Some of them serenaded us with Colonial-era Christmas carols and served apple cider at the end of the tour.

The experience gave me renewed admiration for the awesome achievement of Washington and his troops. After the British occupied Philadelphia in the fall of 1777, Washington looked for a place to regroup and train his men. He selected Valley Forge, 18 miles northwest of Philadelphia. Its high ground, combined with the Schuylkill River to the north, made the area easily defensible. For further protection, he had a four-foot trench dug all the way around the camp.

One fireplace per hut

Eleven thousand soldiers arrived on this plateau. Washington and a few of his officers lived in a previously existing stone building. The rest of their men built log huts, 14 by 16 feet, where they slept, 12 to a cabin. Washington instructed the soldiers to use oak slabs, but logs from more abundant, greener trees like pine and fir were used as well.

Each hut had a fireplace but no other comforts. The men had to walk into the woods for bodily functions. Recent tests, with doors closed and fires burning, show that temperatures in the cabins averaged only 45 degrees. (Washington's original stone headquarters is restored, and many of the log huts have been reconstructed.)

As winter intensified, the camp's population swelled to more than 20,000, but the soldiers received irregular supplies of meat and bread. The men ate "firecake," a tasteless mixture of flour and water. Undernourished and poorly clothed in crowded quarters, many became ill with typhus, typhoid and pneumonia. Disease killed 10% of the troops during the six-month encampment.

Why stick around?

I wondered why men would volunteer to endure such harsh conditions. Patriotism can't explain everything. Most of the recruits received cash bounty and/or land grants— no small consideration at a time when agriculture accounted for 90% of America's wealth. Slaves received promises of freedom after the war. (The details varied from one colony to another.)

In any case, however brutal that winter at Valley Forge may seem to us in retrospect, it wasn't much worse than normal life for poor and rural citizens at that time. Life was more comfortable in Philadelphia and other big cities, which no doubt explains why many Philadelphians chose to remain under British occupation.

Incidentally, remember the flurry that arose in 2004 when excavations at Sixth and Market Streets showed that Washington kept nine enslaved Africans in his presidential residence in the 1790s? Well, it turns out that Washington's forces were America's only racially integrated army until the Korean War. About 300 of the soldiers at Valley Forge were of African descent, and members of the Oneida Indian nation also came to the encampment. Washington used the Indians for scouting, but the black soldiers shared regular duties with white troops and slept in interracial cabins. Washington's color-blind record at Valley Forge balances the scales a bit in his favor.

Luxury of hindsight

The outcome of that winter is history. General von Steuben arrived from Germany and, as the encampment's drillmaster, gradually whipped Washington's army into combat readiness; supplies arrived from farmlands in Lancaster County; and in June 1778 the troops marched away from Valley Forge in pursuit of the British, who were moving toward New York. Barely three years later Washington's troops defeated a major British army at Yorktown, Virginia, prompting the British government to withdraw from the 13 American colonies.

Most Americans today know that story ended happily. The remarkable thing about those 20,000 men who remained with Washington at Valley Forge is: They didn't.♦


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What, When, Where

Valley Forge National Historic Park. Open year-round from dawn to dusk at Route 23 and North Gulph Road, Valley Forge, Pa. Visitor Center and other park buildings open 9 a.m.-5p.m. daily. 90-minute guided trolley tours are available during the Christmas-to-New Years week, and again in the spring. (610) 783-1077 or www.nps.gov/vafo.

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